What's important when buying an e-bike?
Key components that shape performance, reliability and riding experience.
What's important when buying an e-bike?
The rapid growth of electric bikes has created more choice than ever for consumers. Whether you're looking for a commuter bike, leisure bike, cargo bike or touring machine, understanding the key components of an e-bike will help you make a more informed purchasing decision.
While many buyers focus on price and claimed range, the reality is that an e-bike's performance, reliability and riding experience are determined by a combination of components working together. Here are the most important elements to consider and what they mean for everyday riding.
Motor
Position and torque affect handling, power and maintenance.
Motor
Motor Position
The motor position is simply where it is located on the frame. This has an important role to play in how the bike rides in terms of handling and balance but can also be a factor in price and how easy to maintain a bike is.
Mid-drive motors
Mid-drive motors are mounted at the centre of the bike around the bottom bracket. This means the extra weight is placed in the middle of the bike and if the rider's position is quite upright, like on our L20 2.0 e-cargo bike, it helps keep the feel that you would expect when riding upright.
Mid-drive motors do tend to be more powerful, however that tends to be coupled with a weight penalty and because they are built into the frame, can mean they are more difficult to remove for maintenance purposes.
Hub-drive motors
Hub motors are typically mounted to the rear wheel. This adds the extra weight to the back of the bike, which can be beneficial when the rider's position shifts their weight towards the front of the bike, like with our G700 gravel bike. Putting the extra weight towards the back helps encourage better traction (grip) when the power kicks in or the rider is working hard on loose ground.
A hub motor does tend to be less powerful than a mid-drive motor but is also typically cheaper and as the wheel can be removed easily from the bike, arguably a little bit easier to maintain/replace.
Torque Output
Motor torque is measured in Newton metres (Nm) and indicates the motor's rotational force i.e. how much 'grunt' it has.
Typical ranges include:
• 30–50Nm: Leisure riding and flatter routes
• 50–70Nm: General commuting
• 70–90Nm+: Hills, cargo bikes and heavier riders
Higher torque generally means stronger acceleration and easier climbing, particularly when carrying additional weight. However, it really does depend on what you want to use the bike for as to whether more torque is better. For instance, you definitely want more torque when it comes to something like our L20 2.0 e-cargo bike that pumps out a massive 110Nm of torque. This, along with frame advancements, means it has a massive carrying capacity of 250kg!
On the flip side, our G700 and H700 gravel focused bikes have less torque because they are designed to be light and for having fun. Therefore, riders will generally only need to use the motor on steeper climbs.
Battery
Capacity, range factors, and integrated vs removable batteries.
Battery
Every time the motor provides assistance, energy is drawn from the battery. The larger the battery capacity, the greater the potential riding range.
Battery capacity is measured in Watt-hours (Wh) and typical examples include:
• 300–400Wh: Short urban journeys
• 500–600Wh: General commuting and leisure riding
• 700Wh+: Long-distance riding and cargo applications
There are however important factors that can decide the actual range of an e-bike. For instance:
• A rider's weight, particularly if used a lot for climbs
• Terrain. Riding on tarmac will generally speaking see an e-bike experience greater range than if ridden predominantly on trails.
• Tyres. The tread and pressure of a tyre will be a big factor due to something called rolling resistance i.e. how much energy is lost as the tyre deforms against the road/trail.
• Reliance on the motor. A rider that only uses the motor sparingly and generally rides under their own steam will typically experience greater range than someone that has the motor engaged all the time and set to the max assistance level.
• Battery care. An often overlooked element but how you look after your bike's battery can be hugely impactful. Check out your bike's manual for best practices when it comes to looking after the battery and you might be able to enjoy even greater range and freedom.
Integrated v removable
It really depends on the type of bike and how you intend to use an e-bike as to whether a removable battery is a positive.
In most cases it will be because it enables a rider to take a battery inside for charging if for instance, they store their bike in a garage or shed.
However, there are instances where an integrated battery makes a lot of sense. For instance, with our G700 and H700 gravel focused bikes, an integrated battery is important because it helps to keep weight down and protects it from damage.
Drivetrain
Chain or belt — which suits your riding style?
Drivetrain
The drivetrain of e-bikes is an area of rapid development. Nonetheless, there's typically two main options and then some sub-options within that.
Chain or belt
A chain driven e-bike will likely be a more familiar set up, with chainrings at the front being driven by a chain and then gears at the back deciding how easy or hard the rider is working.
A belt drive is a simpler concept with a rubber belt driving a single chainring at the front and there are no gears at the back. The rear wheel hub might incorporate a 2 or 3-speed shifting mechanism, which is great when riding on the flat as the motor by law has to cut out at 15.5mph, so these internal hub gears enable you to continue riding as if the bike was a normal bike.
Which to go for?
It really depends on your intended use of an e-bike as to whether a chain or belt is more appropriate.
A simple way to think about it is that a chain is ideal if you are looking for adventure or fitness type riding as you can really dial in how hard you want to work by adjusting the gearing and/or the power mode.
A belt drive on the other hand, is perfect if you want a calm experience or lack riding experience and perhaps aren't confident changing gears. A belt drive involves very little faff as it requires no lubrication and a belt generally speaking, lasts longer than a chain.
Tyres
Tread, width and puncture protection explained.
Tyres
Tyre selection can become a bit of a rabbit hole but there are some simple general principles.
Tread
The tread is probably the most important element to understand as it can dictate how much you enjoy your ride and how much exploring you can do.
Slicks
A slick tyre is one where the tread, the part of the tyre in contact with the road, is pretty minimal and flat. This is perfect for exclusively road riding as there will be less rolling resistance and it will grip the road better due to the more consistent contact patch.
In very dry conditions, a slick tyre will actually work very well off-road and modern tyres have pretty good puncture protection so short off-road sections or riding along a canal towpath in the summer shouldn't pose any problems.
'Knobbly' (high tread) tyres
A high tread tyre i.e. one with knobbles known as lugs, is designed more for off-road riding and the pattern of the tread and how big the lugs are will dictate the type of surfaces it is intended for.
This is where the rabbit hole begins and things can get very complicated but we'll keep it simple for the purposes of this guide.
The standard tyre on our hybrid e28s and gravel focused G700 and H700 is the Continental Terra Trail. This is a great all-rounder as it has a pretty consistent tread with relatively shallow hexagonal lugs. Such a tyre is great for most conditions other than really heavy mud and will roll reasonably well on tarmac. Our more premium tyre offering for these two bikes is the Panaracer X1. This tyre has a lower and more irregular tread pattern, making it perfect for summer trail conditions when the ground is dry and dusty. This pattern will also mean it rolls significantly faster on tarmac than the Terra Trail, as will the more premium compound it uses as it will deform more easily meaning a lower rolling resistance.
On the e20.9, we have the option of the Schwalbe G-one, which like the Terra Trail is a fantastic all-rounder. The Maxxis Creepy Crawler is the other option and this tyre is perfect if your intention is to continue using the bike off-road during the winter when it is muddier. The lugs are deeper and there is more space between them allowing mud to fling off as the tyre rotates.
The downside to off-road tyres generally, is that whilst they do ride well on the road when conditions are dry (albeit slower than a slick), when the roads are wet, having a knobbly tyre does reduce the contact patch with the road and can mean less grip in the corners.
Width
The general trend these days is to go for wider and wider tyres as it typically improves comfort, grip and oddly, the science suggests they might even roll faster but we won't go into that.
One important thing to remember however is tyre clearance. This means how much space there is between the inflated tyre and the bike frame when you are sitting on the bike. It's crucial to ensure there is enough clearance to protect the frame from damage, especially if you will be riding off-road as pick up from mud and grit might sit on the tyre and grind against the frame.
Puncture protection
As abovementioned, most modern tyres have pretty good puncture protection save for ultra-light race tyres. All the tyres we sell are reliable and durable but there are options for further protection.
For instance, the standard option on our L20 2.0 is the ??, which is a very good tyre. However, we do offer an option for greater puncture protection, the ??, which is designed for carrying greater loads.
The downside with greater puncture protection however, can be a stiffer compound and less comfortable ride.
Torque v Cadence Sensor
How the motor responds to your pedalling input.
Torque v Cadence Sensor
The type of sensor will dictate how the motor provides assistance.
Torque Sensor
A torque sensor measures how hard the rider is pushing on the pedals. The motor then provides assistance proportional to the rider's effort.
Often the benefit is smoother, more immediate power delivery as it responds to a direct input.
A torque sensor is generally the more advanced set up and therefore, often costs more than cadence sensor systems.
Cadence Sensor
A cadence sensor measures how fast the rider is pedalling and provides variable power assistance in response.
Whilst less sophisticated than a torque sensor system, cadence systems are still very good and that is why we sell models featuring either set up. The real benefit of a cadence system is it allows brands such as us to offer different specs and price points.
Suspension
Travel, seatposts and what really affects comfort.
Suspension
Suspension, similar to tyres can get very complicated. However, a key consideration for any suspension system is travel.
Travel is how much the system will compress. More travel generally provides greater comfort on rough surfaces, although excessive travel may not be necessary for urban riding.
Other elements such as rebound and system type (coil or air sprung) are important but probably beyond the scope of this guide.
It is also worth mentioning that front fork suspension isn't the only form of suspension an e-bike can support. For instance our e20s, e28s and gravel bikes can support suspension seatposts that are great for taking the heat out of rough roads or trails but don't come with as much of a weight penalty as a full fork suspension system.
A final point to make is that comfort isn't entirely determined by suspension. The frame design, saddle, the tyres, tyre pressure and also riding position are massively important for how comfortable a rider is. So don't overlook these factors.
Brakes
Why hydraulic disc brakes are the e-bike standard.
Brakes
The vast majority of e-bikes use hydraulic disc brakes. In short these work by the brake levers compressing a type of fluid e.g. mineral oil, which in turn forces the brake calipers to press the brake pads onto a disc shaped rotor.
Hydraulic brakes are fantastic because they provide strong and consistent stopping power, even in bad weather conditions.
We would suggest an e-bike without hydraulic disc brakes is not worth your consideration as they are considered a standard in the e-bike market.
Frame design and carrying capacity
How frame shape affects comfort, handling and practicality.
Frame design and carrying capacity
The frame design is a key element because it can determine how comfortable a bike is, how it handles and how practical it is to use.
Different frame designs suit different purposes but an example of how it can impact your decision is if we take our L20 2.0 e-cargo. The frame has been redesigned so that the top tube is lower, to make it easier for the rider to step over when the bike is loaded e.g. kids are on the back. It has also been upgraded so that it can carry more, up to 250kg!
If we stick with the L20 2.0, people looking at e-cargos may also consider front loaded options i.e. where kids, cargo etc sit in front of the rider. We wholeheartedly decided to focus on a rear loaded cargo because to our mind, having precious cargo in front of you whilst edging out of a busy junction didn't seem the way to go. Nonetheless, we can certainly see the desire to have the kids in front of you whilst riding so you can keep an eye on them.
Another example of how frame design can impact buying decisions is our e-folders, the e20.7, e20.9 and e20.X. All three models have the battery integrated into the seat post. However, an excellent brand starting with a 'B' decided to place the battery in a bag sitting over the front wheel. There are some very good reasons why they do this, however, adding that extra weight over the front end on a short wheelbase will necessarily impact the handling. We went for the weight added centrally to prioritise a ride feel that greater simulates that of riding a full-sized bike.
The key point here is that in almost all instances frames are designed in different ways for different reasons. Our advice is to try and understand what those reasons are and whether they suit your use case. and whether it looks good!
Personalisation
Saddles, handlebars, mudguards, racks and bags.
Personalisation
For us, being able to customise your bike in key ways is absolutely essential. You will see on all our product pages the different ways customers can adapt their bike before it is built. Here are some examples that we think customers should expect as customisable features:
Saddles
Such an important component as it is the primary weight bearing part. However, please note, more cushioning doesn't always mean more comfort as it can mean the rider bounces up and down more, which can be annoying and in time, uncomfortable.
Extra padding might be necessary, but also consider the width of the saddle, how high it is and how far forward it is. A saddle that is too low and too far forward can cause knee pain or conversely, a saddle that is too high and too far back can mean more pressure on the sensitive parts of your body and also certain muscles tiring too quickly when pedalling.
Handlebars
Handlebars can be a great way of adjusting your riding position. For instance, our G700 is a drop bar set up, which means a rider sits in a more aerodynamic position and is perfect for someone who wants to hit the trails hard and improve fitness. The H700 on the other hand, because it has a flat bar set up, means the rider is more upright and relaxed, so it's perfect for more leisure focused riding.
Another example is the Dutch-style handlebars option available on many of our models, including now the L20 2.0 e-cargo. This style of handlebar is great for someone wanting an even more upright riding style than a flatbar set up.
Mudguards
To guard or not to guard? Not such an easy question. They are obviously very helpful when the roads or trails are wet, however, they do add extra weight and can get in the way in certain circumstances. For instance, if you own a folder like one of our e20s and you are forever lifting it up stairs or in and out of a camper, weight might be of primary importance. On the other hand, if you commute in all weathers, you are going to want the reassurance that your bum isn't going to be hit with road splatter if an unexpected shower strikes.
Racks
Racks coupled with pannier bags or top rack bags are incredibly useful when heading to the shops and enabling you to avoid the unseemly sweaty back associated with riding with a backpack. However, a rack does again add weight.
Another thing to consider is other forms of cargo, such as the Urban Iki child seats we stock because not all racks are created equal and there are specific regulations on whether a rack is capable of taking a child seat.
Bags
Estarli's bag game is extremely strong and with reason. E-bikes are typically utility transport and so being able to carry a variety of things in particular ways is important. That is why we have so many easily mountable bike bags and even bags for the bikes themselves!
But even with bags there are some serious considerations as to how it will work with your bike. Is it easy to mount? Will you be taking it on and off regularly? Do you want it to sit on the front or the back of the bike? There is also an important aesthetic consideration here, does your bike look good with a pannier rack and bag?
